Compositions comprising Docynia delavajy extract and/or Elaeagnus lancelotus extract

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a method of treating skin in need thereof, the method comprising topically applying to the skin a composition comprising an effective amount of an ethanolic or a butanolic extract from the leaf and stem of  Docynia delavajy , wherein the composition reduces oxidation in the skin, reduces tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) in the skin, or reduces metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) activity in the skin.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No.14/693,589 filed Apr. 22, 2015, now U.S. Pat. No. 9,498,427, which is acontinuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 13/369,181 filed Feb.8, 2012 (U.S. Pat. No. 9,040,104), which is a continuation of U.S.application Ser. No. 13/055,876 filed Apr. 20, 2011 (U.S. Pat. No.8,137,714), which is a national phase application under 35 U.S.C. §371of International Patent Application PCT Application No.PCT/US2009/051861, filed Jul. 27, 2009, which claims the benefit of U.S.Provisional Application Ser. No. 61/083,797, filed Jul. 25, 2008, andU.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 61/083,782, filed Jul. 25, 2008.The contents of the referenced applications are incorporated into thepresent application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to compositions that include aDocynia delavajy extract, an Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or acombination of both extracts. In particular aspects, the compositionscan be formulated as topical skin compositions.

B. Description of Related Art

Ageing, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition,fatigue, etc., can change the visual appearance, physical properties, orphysiological functions of skin in ways that are considered visuallyundesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include thedevelopment of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increasedsagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarsesurface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Less obvious, but measurablechanges which occur as skin ages or endures chronic environmental insultinclude a general reduction in cellular and tissue vitality, reductionin cell replication rates, reduced cutaneous blood flow, reducedmoisture content, accumulated errors in structure and function,alterations in the normal regulation of common biochemical pathways, anda reduction in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Many ofthe alterations in appearance and function of the skin are caused bychanges in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while others arecaused by changes in the lower dermis.

Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin with knownskin active-ingredients have been shown to have various drawbacks suchas skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides an effective alternative to existing skinactive-ingredients that are used with topical application to keratinoustissue (e.g., skin, hair, nails, etc.). In this regard, the compositionsof the present invention can include a Docynia delavajy extract, anElaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or a combination of both extracts. Theextract can be obtained from any part of the Docynia delavajy tree orElaeagnus lanceolatus shrub. Non-limiting examples include extractsobtain from the whole tree or shrub, leaves, stems, flowers, flowerbuds, bark, roots, fruit, seeds, and any mixture of extracts. By way ofexample, the extract can be obtained from the whole fruit (e.g., fruitpulp and seeds), the whole tree (e.g., the entire tree is used toproduce the extract), the whole shrub (e.g., the entire shrub is used toproduce the extract) a particular part of the tree or shrub at theexclusion of another part (e.g., seed extract isolated from other partsof the tree), etc.

In certain embodiments, the compositions are formulated into topicalskin or hair care compositions. The compositions can be cosmeticcompositions. The compositions can be formulated as emulsions (e.g.,oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone,water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil,oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions, solutions (e.g.,aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrous bases (e.g., lipstickor a powder), gels, ointments, milks, pastes, aerosols, solid forms, eyejellies, etc. The compositions can also be formulated for topical skinapplication at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or more times a day duringuse. In other aspects of the present invention, compositions can bestorage stable or color stable, or both. It is also contemplated thatthe viscosity of the composition can be selected to achieve a desiredresult, e.g., depending on the type of composition desired, theviscosity of such composition can be from about 1 cps to well over 1million cps or any range or integer derivable therein (e.g., 2 cps, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 200, 300,400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000,8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000, 80000,90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000, 600000, 700000, 800000,900000, 1000000 cps, etc., as measured on a Brookfield Viscometer usinga TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.).

The compositions of the present invention can include any desired amountof Docynia delavajy extract and/or Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract. Forexample, the amount of the extracts can individually or combined be from0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01,0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5,0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 96, 97,98, 99%, or more or, or any range derivable therein, by weight or volumeof the extract or combination of extracts.

The compositions of the present invention can also be modified to have adesired oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. In certainnon-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention or theDocynia delavajy extract can be modified to have an ORAC value per mg ofat least about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16,17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50,55, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900,1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 15000,20000, 30000, 50000, 100000 or more or any range derivable therein.

The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 toabout 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride.Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chaintriglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chaintriglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions canalso include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservativesinclude methylparaben, propylparaben, or a mixture of methylparaben andpropylparaben.

Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorptionproperties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of2, 3, 4, 56, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45,50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer or derivative therein. Thecompositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays, or creams.

In one aspect of the present invention there is disclosed a topical skincare composition that includes Docynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnuslanceolatus extract, or a combination of such extracts, in combinationwith any one of, any combination of, or all of the followingingredients: water; glycerin; butylene glycol; propylene glycol;phenoxyethanol; a chelating agent (e.g., EDTA, disodium EDTA, trisodiumEDTA, EGTA, disodium EGTA, trisodium EGTA, citric acid, phosphoric acid,succinic acid, etc.); steareth-20; chlorhexidine digluconate; potassiumsorbate; and/or a preservative (e.g., methylparaben, propylparaben,butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.). In particularaspects, the composition can further include any one of, any combinationof, or all of the following additional ingredients: alcohol; denaturedalcohol; glyceryl stearate; dimethicone; PEG-100 stearate; caprylglycol; triethanolamine; maltodextrin; sorbic acid; ethylene brassylate;methyl linalool; isobutyl methyl tetrahydropyranol; ethylhexylglycerin;and/or hexylene glycol. The concentrations of these ingredients canrange from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or anyinteger or range derivable therein as explained in other portions ofthis specification. In particular aspects, the concentration of watercan be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water.

In another aspect of the invention, there is disclosed a topical skincare composition that includes Docynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnuslanceolatus extract, or a combination of such extracts, in combinationwith any one of, any combination of, or all of the followingingredients: water; dimethicone; triethanolamine; phenonip; betaine; achelating agent (e.g., EDTA, disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, EGTA,disodium EGTA, trisodium EGTA, citric acid, phosphoric acid, succinicacid, etc.); tocopheryl acetate; and/or prodew 400. In particularaspects, the composition can further include any one of, any combinationof, or all of the following additional ingredients: propylene glycol;isododecane; polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/laureth 7 mixture;PEG-12 dimethicone; and/or ethylhexyl palmitate. The concentrations ofthese ingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume ofthe composition or any integer or range derivable therein as explainedin other portions of this specification. In particular aspects, theconcentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water.

Also disclosed is a method of treating or preventing a skin conditioncomprising topical application of a composition comprising Docyniadelavajy extract, Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or a combination ofsuch extracts, wherein the topical application of the composition treatsthe skin condition. Non-limiting examples of skin conditions includepruritus, spider veins, lentigo, age spots, senile purpura, keratosis,melasma, blotches, fine lines or wrinkles, nodules, sun damaged skin,dermatitis (including, but not limited to seborrheic dermatitis,nummular dermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, exfoliativedermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and stasis dermatitis), psoriasis,folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo, erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema,and other inflammatory skin conditions. In certain non-limiting aspects,the skin condition can be caused by exposure to UV light, age,irradiation, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, airpollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals, disease pathologies, smoking, orlack of nutrition. The skin can be facial skin or non-facial skin (e.g.,arms, legs, hands, chest, back, feet, etc.). The method can furthercomprise identifying a person in need of skin treatment. The person canbe a male or female. The age of the person can be at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75,80, 85, 90, 95, or more years old, or any range derivable therein. Themethod can also include topically applying an amount effective to:increase the stratum corneum turnover rate of the skin; increasecollagen synthesis in fibroblasts; increase cellular anti-oxidantdefense mechanisms (e.g., exogenous additions of anti-oxidants canbolster, replenish, or prevent the loss of cellular antioxidants such ascatalase and glutathione in skin cells (e.g., keratinocytes,melanocytes, langerhans cells, etc.) which will reduce or preventoxidative damage to the skin, cellular, proteins, and lipids); inhibitmelanin production in melanocytes; reduce or prevent oxidative damage toskin (including reducing the amount lipid peroxides and/or proteinoxidation in the skin). The method can also include topically applying acomposition of the present invention to skin in need of treatment (e.g.,topically applying the composition to skin having a skin conditionidentified in the specification and known to those of ordinary skill inthe art).

In certain embodiments, compositions of the present invention candecrease the amount of internal oxidation and/or external oxidativedamage in a cell. In other aspects, the compositions can increasecollagen synthesis in a cell. The compositions can also reduce skininflammation, such as by reducing inflammatory cytokine production in acell. Non-limiting examples of such cells include human epidermalkeratinocyte, human fibroblast dermal cell, human melanocytes, threedimensional human cell-derived in vitro tissue equivalents comprisinghuman keratinocytes, human fibroblasts, or human melanocytes, or anycombination thereof (e.g., combination of human keratinocytes and humanfibroblasts or a combination of human keratinocytes and humanmelanocytes).

Also disclosed is a method of lightening skin or evening skin tonecomprising applying the compositions of the present invention to theskin. The method can further comprise identify a person in need oflightening skin or evening skin tone. The methods can further includeinhibiting melanogenesis in a skin cell, inhibiting tyrosinase ortyrosinase synthesis in a skin cell, or inhibiting melanin transport tokeratinocytes in a skin cell. The composition can act as an alphamelanin stimulatory hormone antagonist. The composition can even outpigmentation of the skin. In non-limiting aspect, lightening skin caninclude reducing the appearance of an age spot, a skin discoloration, afreckle, a sun spot, hyper-pigmented skin, etc., by topical applicationof the composition to the age spot, a skin discoloration, a freckle, asun spot, hyper-pigmented skin, etc.

Also disclosed is a method of treating hyperpigmentation comprisingapplying the compositions of the present invention to the skin. Themethod can also comprise identifying a person in need of treatinghyperpigmentation and applying the composition to a portion of the skinexhibiting hyperpigmentation. Additional methods contemplated by theinventor include methods for reducing the appearance of an age spot, askin discoloration, or a freckle, reducing or preventing the appearanceof fine lines or wrinkles in skin, or increasing the firmness of skin byapplying the compositions of the present invention to skin in need ofsuch treatment.

Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, orliquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, acleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a mask, an anti-aging product, adeodorant, or an antiperspirant.

It is also contemplated that compositions of the present invention canbe included into food-based products (e.g., beverages, fortified water,energy drinks, nutritional drinks, solid foods, vitamins, supplements,etc.) and pharmaceutical products, etc. “Supplements” can includevitamins, minerals, herbs or other botanicals, amino acids, enzymes andmetabolites. Such supplements are suitable for oral consumption and canbe administered orally.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, the topical skin compositions of the currentinvention are pharmaceutically elegant. “Pharmaceutically elegant”describes a composition that has particular tactile properties whichfeel pleasant on the skin (e.g., compositions that are not too watery orgreasy, compositions that have a silky texture, compositions that arenon-tacky or sticky, etc.). Pharmaceutically elegant can also relate tothe creaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to themoisture retaining properties of the composition.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, skin, hair and nails.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition” includescompositions suitable for topical application on keratinous tissue. Suchcompositions are typically dermatologically-acceptable in that they donot have undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergicresponse, and the like, when applied to skin. Topical skin carecompositions of the present invention can have a selected viscosity toavoid significant dripping or pooling after application to skin.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these terms,when used in the claims and/or the specification includes any measurabledecrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

The use of the term “or” in the claims is used to mean “and/or” unlessexplicitly indicated to refer to alternatives only or the alternativesare mutually exclusive, although the disclosure supports a definitionthat refers to only alternatives and “and/or.”

The words “comprising” (and any form of comprising, such as “comprise”and “comprises”), “having” (and any form of having, such as “have” and“has”), “including” (and any form of including, such as “includes” and“include”) or “containing” (and any form of containing, such as“contains” and “contain”) are inclusive or open-ended and do not excludeadditional, unrecited elements or method steps.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The following drawings form part of the present specification and areincluded to further demonstrate certain aspects of the presentinvention. The invention may be better understood by reference to one ormore of these drawings in combination with the detailed description ofspecific embodiments presented below.

FIG. 1: Preparation procedure for screening plant material such asDocynia delavajy extract and/or Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

In today's image conscious society, people are continually looking for aproduct that can improve the visual appearance of their skin. Oftentimes, aged skin, uneven skin tone, or skin damaged by environmentalfactors such as UV light, chronic sun exposure, environmentalpollutants, chemicals, disease pathologies, or smoking, is associatedwith unattractive skin. Previous attempts to improve the visualappearance of skin has been shown to have various drawbacks such as skinirritation and prolonged recovery periods.

The present invention is an effective alternative to the use ofcompositions and ingredients currently used to treat aged skin,environmentally-damaged skin, uneven skin tone, and other skinconditions. In one non-limiting embodiment, the compositions of thepresent invention can be used to treat irritation of the skin and toimprove the skin's visual appearance, physiological functions, clinicalproperties, or biophysical properties by providing a composition of thepresent invention to an area of the skin that needs such treatment. Asnoted throughout this specification, the compositions can includeDocynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or acombination of these extracts. These and other non-limiting aspects ofthe present invention are described in further detail below.

A. Docynia delavajy Extract

Docynia delavajy, also known as pyrus delavayi, is a flowering evergreentree that is found in eastern Asian countries such as China. Docyniadelavajy is a member of the Rosaceae family. Alternate spelling forDocynia delavajy include “Docynia delavajy” and “Docynia delavayi.” Allof the different portions of the Docynia delavajy tree can be used toobtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include theDocynia delavajy leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flowerbuds, fruit, and seeds.

The inventors have discovered that such extracts of Docynia delavajy arenatural ingredients that contain several activities that reduceirritation in skin, such as inhibition of inflammatory mediators.

A person of ordinary skill in the art would be able to isolate Docyniadelavajy extract from parts of the Docynia delavajy tree by using anysuitable method known in the art. In one non-limiting example, theDocynia delavajy tree can be disrupted by mechanical means which resultsin a puree. The puree is then processed to be substantially free ofimpurities or undesired solids, e.g., stems. The puree can then pouredinto a shallow vessel and quickly exposed to low temperature, i.e.,flash frozen, for example at −20° C. or lower, preferably under a vacuumfor removal of water content (lyophilization). The resultant extract canthen be used in the compositions of the present invention.

In another example, the Docynia delavajy extract can be obtained byorganic solvent extraction as described in FIG. 1. The extract may befurther purified by the use of polyporous resin column chromatography(See Example 1 below).

B. Elaeagnus lanceolatus Extract

Elaeagnus lanceolatus is a species of flowering shrubs in theElaeagnaceae family and is found in Asian countries such as China.Alternate spellings for Elaeagnus lanceolatus include “Elaeagnuslanceolata.” All of the different portions of the Elaeagnus lanceolatusshrub can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limitingexamples include the Elaeagnus lanceolatus leaves, stems, bark, roots,fruit, flowers or flower buds, fruit, and seeds.

The inventors have discovered that such extracts of Elaeagnuslanceolatus are natural ingredients that contain several activities thatreduce irritation in skin, such as inhibition of inflammatory mediators.

A person of ordinary skill in the art would be able to isolate Elaeagnuslanceolatus extract from parts of the Elaeagnus lanceolatus shrub byusing any suitable method known in the art. In one non-limiting example,the Elaeagnus lanceolatus shrub can be disrupted by mechanical meanswhich results in a puree. The puree is then processed to besubstantially free of impurities or undesired solids, e.g., stems. Thepuree can then poured into a shallow vessel and quickly exposed to lowtemperature, i.e., flash frozen, for example at −20° C. or lower,preferably under a vacuum for removal of water content (lyophilization).The resultant extract can then be used in the compositions of thepresent invention.

In another example, the Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract is obtained byorganic solvent extraction as described in FIG. 1. The extract may befurther purified by the use of polyporous resin column chromatography(See Example 1 below).

C. Compositions of the Present Invention

1. Combinations and Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude a Docynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or acombination of these extracts. The compositions can also includeadditional ingredients described throughout this specification. Theconcentrations of the Docynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnus lanceolatusextract and/or additional ingredients can vary. In non-limitingembodiments, for example, the compositions can include in their finalform, for example, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%,0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%,0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%,0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%,0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%,0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%,0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%,0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%,0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%,0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%,0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%,0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%,0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%,0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%,0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%,0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%,0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%,0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%,0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%,0.5250%, 0.550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%,0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%,0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%,1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%,2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%,4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%,5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%,6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%,7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%,8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%,11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%,25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%,80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or more, or any range or integer derivabletherein, of at least one Docynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnus lanceolatusextract, or additional ingredients. In non-limiting aspects, thepercentage of such ingredients can be calculated by weight or volume ofthe total weight of the compositions. The concentrations can varydepending on the desired effect of the compositions or on the productinto which the compositions are incorporated.

2. Composition Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be formulated into alltypes of vehicles. Non-limiting examples of suitable vehicles includeemulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water,oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions,solutions (both aqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such aslipsticks and powders), gels, ointments, pastes, milks, liquids,aerosols, solid forms, or eye jellies. Variations and other appropriatevehicles will be apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate foruse in the present invention. In certain aspects, the concentrations andcombinations of the ingredients be selected in such a way that thecombinations are chemically compatible and do not form complexes whichprecipitate from the finished product.

It is also contemplated that the Docynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnuslanceolatus extract, combination of such extracts, and additionalingredients identified throughout this specification can be encapsulatedfor delivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples ofencapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/ornanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidalparticles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient istrapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres andnanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver suchingredients to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398; U.S. Pat. No.6,203,802; U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744; Kreuter 1988).

Also contemplated are pharmaceutically-acceptable orpharmacologically-acceptable compositions. The phrase“pharmaceutically-acceptable” or “pharmacologically-acceptable” includescompositions that do not produce an allergic or similar untowardreaction when administered to a human. Typically, such compositions areprepared either as topical compositions, liquid solutions orsuspensions, solid forms suitable for solution in, or suspension in,liquid prior to use can also be prepared. Routes of administration canvary with the location and nature of the condition to be treated, andinclude, e.g., topical, inhalation, intradermal, transdermal,parenteral, intravenous, intramuscular, intranasal, subcutaneous,percutaneous, intratracheal, intraperitoneal, intratumoral, perfusion,lavage, direct injection (e.g., an injectable solution), and oraladministration and formulation (e.g., tablets, capsules, etc.).

3. Products

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated intoproducts. Non-limiting examples of products include cosmetic products,food-based products (e.g., fortified water, energy drinks, nutritionaldrinks, vitamins, supplements, solid foods), pharmaceutical products,etc. By way of example only, non-limiting cosmetic products includesunscreen products, sunless skin tanning products, hair products (e.g.,shampoos, conditioners, colorants, dyes, bleaches, straighteners, andpermanent wave products), fingernail products, moisturizing creams, skincreams and lotions, softeners, day lotions, gels, ointments,foundations, night creams, lipsticks and lip balms, cleansers, toners,masks, deodorants, antiperspirants, exfoliating compositions,shaving-related products (e.g., creams, “bracers” and aftershaves),pre-moistened wipes and washcloths, tanning lotions, bath products suchas oils, foot care products such as powders and sprays, skin colorantand make-up products such as foundations, blushes, rouges eye shadowsand lines, lip colors and mascaras, baby products (e.g., baby lotions,oils, shampoos, powders and wet wipes), and skin or facial peelproducts. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products.

4. Additional Ingredients

Compositions of the present invention can include additionalingredients. Non-limiting examples of additional ingredients includecosmetic ingredients (both active and non-active) and pharmaceuticalingredients (both active and non-active).

a. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook(2004) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural),dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), adsorbents, emulsifiers, stabilizers, lubricants, solvents,moisturizers (including, e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers,occlusive agents, and agents that affect the natural moisturizationmechanisms of the skin), water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical andchemical absorbers such as paraaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) andcorresponding PABA derivatives, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.),essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A, B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals(e.g., zinc, calcium and selenium), anti-irritants (e.g., steroids andnon-steroidal anti-inflammatories), botanical extracts (e.g., aloe vera,chamomile, cucumber extract, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, and rosemary),anti-microbial agents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT and tocopherol),chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA),preservatives (e.g., methylparaben and propylparaben), pH adjusters(e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid), absorbents (e.g., aluminumstarch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch, cyclodextrin,talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g.,hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g., glycerin,propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, sorbitol, urea, andmannitol), exfoliants (e.g., alpha-hydroxyacids, and beta-hydroxyacidssuch as lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid; and saltsthereof) waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxidestearate), skin conditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin,bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, and dipotassiumglycyrrhizate), thickening agents (e.g., substances which that canincrease the viscosity of a composition such as carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums), and silicone containing compounds (e.g.,silicone oils and polyorganosiloxanes). The following provides specificnon-limiting examples of some of the additional ingredients that can beused with the compositions of the present invention.

1. Sunscreen Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloytrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorptionproperties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of2, 3, 4, 56, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45,50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90 or more, or any integer or derivative therein.

2. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates copolymer,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, aluminum starchoctenylsuccinate, aluminum stearate, apricot (prunus armeniaca) kerneloil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract, ascorbicacid, ascorbyl palmitate, aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima)oil, barium sulfate, barrier sphingolipids, butyl alcohol, beeswax,behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, BHT, birch (betula alba) bark extract,borage (borago officinalis) extract, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol,butcherbroom (ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendulaofficinalis extract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbiacerifera) wax, canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon(elettaria cardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax,carrageenan (chondrus crispus), carrot (daucus carota sativa) oil,castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin, ceteareth-5,ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20, ceteth-24,cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile (anthemisnobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dextrin, diazolidinyl urea, dimethiconecopolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl succinate,dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, DMDM hydantoin, DNA,erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulus oil,evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, tructose,gelatin, geranium maculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate,glutamic acid, glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate,glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hybrid safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline,imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, isocetyl stearate,isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl isostearate,isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropylstearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid, isostearyl lactate,isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminum officinale) oil, jojoba(buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleurites moluccana) nut oil,lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate, lanolin, lanolin acid,lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lavender (lavandulaangustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medica limonum) oil, linoleicacid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nut oil, magnesium stearate,magnesium sulfate, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil,methyl glucose sesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, microcrystalline wax,mineral oil, mink oil, mortierella oil, myristyl lactate, myristylmyristate, myristyl propionate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate,octyl hydroxystearate, octyl palmitate, octyl salicylate, octylstearate, oleic acid, olive (olea europaea) oil, orange (citrusaurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeis guineensis) oil, palmitic acid,pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, paraffin, PCA, peach(prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachis hypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate,PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-7 hydrogenatedcastor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG40 sorbitan peroleate,PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2 stearate, PEG-8 stearate,PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate,PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate, pentadecalactone, peppermint (menthapiperita) oil, petrolatum, phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate,polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20,polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85,potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium sorbate, potassiumstearate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, quaternium-15, quaternium-18 hectorite,quaternium-22, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (oryza sativa) bran oil,RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower(carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil, salicylicacid, sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame(sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder,sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, sodium stearate, solublecollagen, sorbic acid, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitanpalmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean(glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene, stearamideMEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate,stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower (helianthus annuus) seedoil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, synthetic beeswax,tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin,tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin,urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat (triticum vulgare) germ oil,and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

3. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

4. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agents, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

5. Emulsifiers

In some non-limiting aspects, the compositions can include one or moreemulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacial tension betweenphases and improve the formulation and stability of an emulsion. Theemulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, and zwitterionicemulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,011,681;4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include esters of glycerin,esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol,fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, esters of sorbitol, esters ofsorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers ofglucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates,polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyllactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, polyethyleneglycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, PPG-2methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixturesthereof.

6. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In preferred aspects, the silicon containing compounds includesa silicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

7. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

8. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances that can increase the viscosity of a composition. Thickenersinclude those that can increase the viscosity of a composition withoutsubstantially modifying the efficacy of the active ingredient within thecomposition. Thickeners can also increase the stability of thecompositions of the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

b. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical ingredients are also contemplated as being useful withthe emulsion compositions of the present invention. Non-limitingexamples of pharmaceutical ingredients include anti-acne agents, agentsused to treat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals,antihistamines, anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidalanti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals,antimicrobials, anti-cancer actives, scabicides, pediculicides,antineoplastics, antiperspirants, antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents,antiseborrheic agents, biologically active proteins and peptides, burntreatment agents, cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories,diaper rash treatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hairgrowth retardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics,kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents,dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skinprotectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones andcorticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermalactives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, woundtreatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

D. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, a composition of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of a composition. Inother embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal, laminate,or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of the composition. Thecomposition can be dispensed as a spray, foam, an aerosol, a liquid, afluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump, or squeezemechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for using the kit and/orcompositions. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 Materials and Methods for Obtaining Docynia delavajy Extract

Docynia delavajy extract was derived from the Docynia delavajy plantfrom Wudin County, China. The extract was obtained from the KunmingInstitute of Botany (Kunming 650204, Yunnan, P. R. China).

The extract was obtained from the plant by organic solvent extraction.The preparation procedure is shown in FIG. 1. The stems and leaves ofthe plant were used to obtain the crude extract. The crude extracts werethen diluted in an appropriate diluent and tested directly in a bioassayor included in a cosmetic formulation.

The extract was then further purified by polyporous resin columnchromatography. The crude plant extract was dissolved in hot ethanol andfiltered with filter paper. The filtrate was then added to the top ofpolyporous resin column (filled with D-101, Chinese brand, similar toXAD, Diaion HP and Dowex resin, diameter 3 cm×height 25 cm), and elutedwith 300 ml of ethanol and 200 ml of acetone, respectively. Theevaporation of the ethanol eluent under reduced pressure afforded anethanol part which is used for bioassays or included in a cosmeticformulation.

Example 2 Efficacy of Docynia delavajy Extract and Assays Used

The efficacy of the Docynia delavajy extracts prepared in Example 1 weresubjected to a variety of assays. These assays and the correspondingresults are summarized in Table 1.

TABLE 1 Assay Result Antioxidant Assay Exhibits anti-oxidant activityTumor Necrosis Exhibits anti-irritant activity Factor-Alpha Assay MMP1assay Protects matrix proteins from degradationExplanations of the assays in Table 1 and the corresponding results areprovided in the following paragraphs.

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (Ann Arbor, Mich.USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay to measure the total anti-oxidantcapacity of the Docynia delavajy extracts. The protocol was followedaccording to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherolanalogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent. Antioxidantactivity of the Docynia delavajy extracts was observed.

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The anti-irritant capability of the Docynia delavajy extracts wereevaluated by measuring inhibition of TNF-α release by primary humankeratinocytes in response to stress. Primary human keratinocytes wereinduced to release TNF-α, a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a centralrole in inflammation, in the presence or absence of the extract. TNF-αsecretion was quantified using R&D Systems (Minneapolis, Minn. USA)TNF-α Enzyme-linked Immunosorbant Assay #DTA00C according tomanufacturer instructions. This sandwich immunoassay technique usedcolor development to quantify the amount of TNF-α present in thecellular supernatant. Color developed in proportion to the amount ofTNF-α and was detected at 450 nm using a microplate reader. Data werecalculated as % inhibition of the untreated controls. Negative valuesdemonstrated the ability of test ingredients to inhibit the productionof TNF-α compared to controls. Anti-irritant activity of the Docyniadelavajy extracts was observed.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay:

Collagen, an extracellular matrix protein produced in healthy skin, isdegraded by the enzyme collagenase. The Invitrogen (Carlsbad, Calif.USA) EnzChek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay Kit #E-12055 was used toquantify the capability of the extract to inhibit the activity of MMP1(Collagenase). The protocol was followed according to manufacturerrecommendations. The assay contained a soluble gelatin substrate labeledwith a fluorescent dye such that the conjugate's fluorescence wasquenched. Once cleaved by collagenase or other proteases, the substrateyielded highly fluorescent fragments measured using a microplate reader.The non-fluorescent substrate was incubated with MMP1 in the presence orabsence of the extract. The ability of the extract to prevent substratecleavage was quantified and compared to positive controls. Inhibition ofMMP1 activity by the Docynia delavajy extracts was observed.

Example 3 Materials and Methods for Obtaining Elaeagnus lanceolatusExtract

Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract was derived from the Elaeagnus lanceolatusplant from Wudin County, China. The extract was obtained from theKunming Institute of Botany (Kunming 650204, Yunnan, P. R. China).

The extract was obtained from the plant by organic solvent extraction.The preparation procedure is shown in FIG. 1. The stems and leaves ofthe plant were used to obtain the crude extract. The crude extracts werethen diluted in an appropriate diluent and tested directly in a bioassayor included in a cosmetic formulation.

The extract was then further purified by polyporous resin columnchromatography. The crude plant extract was dissolved in hot ethanol andfiltered with filter paper. The filtrate was then added to the top ofpolyporous resin column (filled with D-101, Chinese brand, similar toXAD, Diaion HP and Dowex resin, diameter 3 cm×height 25 cm), and elutedwith 300 ml of ethanol and 200 ml of acetone, respectively. Theevaporation of the ethanol eluent under reduced pressure afforded anethanol part which is used for bioassays or included in a cosmeticformulation.

Example 4 Efficacy of Elaeagnus lanceolatus Extract and Assays Used

The efficacy of the Elaeagnus lanceolatus extracts prepared in Example 1were subjected to a variety of assays. These assays and thecorresponding results are summarized in Table 2.

TABLE 2 Assay Result Antioxidant Assay Exhibits anti-oxidant activityTumor Necrosis Exhibits anti-irritant activity Factor-Alpha Assay MMP1assay Protects matrix proteins from degradationExplanations of the assays in Table 2 and the corresponding results areprovided in the following paragraphs.

Antioxidant (AO) assay: Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from CaymanChemical (Ann Arbor, Mich. USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay tomeasure the total anti-oxidant capacity of the Elaeagnus lanceolatusextracts. The protocol was followed according to manufacturerrecommendations. The assay relied on antioxidants in the sample toinhibit the oxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazolinesulphonate]) to ABTS®+ by metmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidantsin the sample to prevent ABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Troloxequivalent. Antioxidant activity of the Elaeagnus lanceolatus extractswas observed.

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The anti-irritant capability of Elaeagnus lanceolatus extracts wereevaluated by measuring inhibition of TNF-α release by primary humankeratinocytes in response to stress. Primary human keratinocytes wereinduced to release TNF-α, a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a centralrole in inflammation, in the presence or absence of the extract. TNF-αsecretion was quantified using R&D Systems (Minneapolis, Minn. USA)TNF-α Enzyme-linked Immunosorbant Assay #DTA00C according tomanufacturer instructions. This sandwich immunoassay technique usedcolor development to quantify the amount of TNF-α present in thecellular supernatant. Color developed in proportion to the amount ofTNF-α and was detected at 450 nm using a microplate reader. Data werecalculated as % inhibition of the untreated controls. Negative valuesdemonstrated the ability of test ingredients to inhibit the productionof TNF-α compared to controls. Anti-irritant activity of the Elaeagnuslanceolatus extracts was observed.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay:

Collagen, an extracellular matrix protein produced in healthy skin, isdegraded by the enzyme collagenase. The Invitrogen (Carlsbad, Calif.USA) EnzChek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay Kit #E-12055 was used toquantify the capability of the extract to inhibit the activity of MMP1(Collagenase). The protocol was followed according to manufacturerrecommendations. The assay contained a soluble gelatin substrate labeledwith a fluorescent dye such that the conjugate's fluorescence wasquenched. Once cleaved by collagenase or other proteases, the substrateyielded highly fluorescent fragments measured using a microplate reader.The non-fluorescent substrate was incubated with MMP1 in the presence orabsence of the extract. The ability of the extract to prevent substratecleavage was quantified and compared to positive controls. Inhibition ofMMP1 activity by the Elaeagnus lanceolatus extracts was observed.

Example 5 Testing Vehicles and Sample Compositions

Tables 3 and 4 describe generic skin testing formulations in which askin active ingredient can be incorporated into to determine the typesof skin benefits that can be attributed to the skin active ingredient.These formulations are prepared in such a manner that any resulting skinbenefit from topical application of the formula to skin can be directlyattributed to the skin active ingredient being tested. In the context ofthe present invention, the skin active ingredient that can be tested canbe an extract from the Docynia delavajy tree (e.g., root, stem, leaf,flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, etc., extracts) or the Elaeagnuslanceolatus shrub (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark,fruit, seed, etc., extracts) or a combination of these extracts. Itshould be recognized that other standard testing vehicles can also beused to determine the skin benefit properties of extracts obtained fromthe Docynia delavajy tree, the Elaeagnus lanceolatus shrub, or acombination of these trees and shrubs, and that the followingformulations are non-limiting testing vehicles.

TABLE 3* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Phase A Water 84.80Xanthum gum 0.1 M-paraben 0.15 P-paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.1 Phase BCetyl alcohol 4.0 Glyceryl stearate + 4.0 PEG 100 Octyl palmitate 4.0Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Phase C** Skin Active Ingredient2.0 TOTAL 100 *Procedure for making composition: Sprinkle Xanthum gum inwater and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add all ingredients in phase Aand heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase B to separate beaker andheat to 70-75° C. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C. Continue mixing andallow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently, add phase C ingredientwhile mixing. **The Docynia delavajy extracts and Elaeagnus lanceausextracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporatedinto this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. Theconcentration ranges of the extracts can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. Further, acombination of these extracts can be used.

TABLE 4* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Phase A Water 78.6M-paraben 0.2 P-paraben 0.1 Na2 EDTA 0.1 Shea butter 4.5 Petrolatum 4.5Glycerin 4.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Finsolve TN 2.0 Phase B Sepigel 3052.0 Phase C** Skin Active Ingredient 2.0 TOTAL 100 *Add ingredients inphase A to beaker and heat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, addthe phase B ingredient with phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing.Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing. **The Docyniadelavajy extracts and Elaeagnus lanceaus extracts identified throughoutthis specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation asthe skin active ingredient. The concentration ranges of the extracts canbe modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amountof water. Further, a combination of these extracts can be used.

Table 5 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 5composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table5 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE 5 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient* 0.1% to 10% Glycerin    3 to 40% Butylene glycol 0.0001 to10% Propylene glycol 0.0001 to 10% Phenoxyethanol 0.0001 to 10% DisodiumEDTA 0.0001 to 10% Steareth-20 0.0001 to 10% Chlorhexidine Diglunonate0.0001 to 10% Potasium Sorbate 0.0001 to 10% Preservative** 0.0001 to 2%TOTAL 100 *Skin active ingredient can be Docynia delavajy extract,Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or a combination of such extracts. **Anypreservative can be used identified in the specification or those knownin the art.

Table 6 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 6composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table6 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE 6 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient* 0.1% to 10% Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Triethanolamine 0.0001to 10% Phenonip 0.0001 to 10% Betaine 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001to 10% Tocopheryl acetate 0.0001 to 10% Prodew 400 0.0001 to 10%Preservative** 0.0001 to 2% TOTAL 100 *Skin active ingredient can beDocynia delavajy extract, Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or acombination of such extracts. **Any preservative can be used identifiedin the specification or those known in the art.

Example 6 Assays that can be Used to Test Compositions

The efficacy of compositions comprising Docynia delavajy extract,Elaeagnus lanceolatus extract, or a combination of such extracts(including, for example, the formulations identified in Tables 3-6) canbe determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art. Inaddition the assays referenced above in Examples 2 and 4, the followingare additional non-limiting assays that can be used in the context ofthe present invention. It should be recognized that other testingprocedures can be used, including, for example, objective and subjectiveprocedures.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can bemade on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facialvalues. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and the are of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lineswas determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay:

In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of thepresent invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, forexample, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog,stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), aprecursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated witha variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents ofthe present invention or with the base alone as a control.Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as acontrol.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of thearomatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed bymeasuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions.This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes toinhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals thatare known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determinedby methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S.Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), allof which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay describedin Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds intest materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE)fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

REFERENCES

The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplaryprocedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, arespecifically incorporated herein by reference.

-   U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053-   U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560-   U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769-   U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949-   U.S. Pat. No. 4,599,379-   U.S. Pat. No. 4,628,078-   U.S. Pat. No. 4,835,206-   U.S. Pat. No. 4,849,484-   U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681-   U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445-   U.S. Pat. No. 5,100,660-   U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744-   U.S. Pat. No. 6,203,802-   U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398-   U.S. Patent Publn. 2004/0109905-   U.S. Patent Publn. 2005/0163880-   Cao et al., Free Radic. Biol. Med., 14:303-311, 1993.-   CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4^(th) Ed., pp 12    and 80, 1991.-   International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10^(th) Ed., 2004.-   Kreuter, J. Microencapsulation, 5:115-127, 1988.-   McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents, North American Edition,    1986.-   Packman and Gams, J. Soc. Cos. Chem., 29:70-90, 1978.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method of treating skin in need thereof,the method comprising topically applying to the skin a compositioncomprising an effective amount of an ethanolic or a butanolic extractfrom the leaf and stem of Docynia delavajy, wherein the compositionreduces oxidation in the skin, reduces tumor necrosis factor-alpha(TNF-α) in the skin, or reduces metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) activity inthe skin.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is appliedto a fine line or wrinkle.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition is applied to inflamed skin.
 4. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition is an emulsion.
 5. The method of claim 4,wherein the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion.
 6. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the composition is a cream or a lotion.
 7. The methodof claim 1, wherein the composition is a solution.
 8. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the composition is anhydrous.
 9. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition comprises 0.001% to 5%, weight, of the extract.10. The method of claim 1, further comprising: (a) water; (b) achelating agent; (c) a moisturizing agent; (d) a preservative; and (e) athickening agent.
 11. The method of claim 1, wherein the extract is anethanolic extract.
 12. The method of claim 1, wherein the compositionfurther comprises at least 40% by weight of water.